BEGINNER SEWING TECHNIQUES

Many times, those of us who have been sewing for years tend to overlook the next generation of sewing artists! Young girls AND boys alike need to learn the sewing craft in order to keep the tradition and artistry going. Everyone at some point in time will find it handy to be able to sew on a button, repair a zipper, or even sew a hem or repair one. These simple sewing skills are not hard to learn, and once conquered, can propel an individual to even more difficult and rewarding sewing projects.

BACK TO THE BASICS

Imagine trying to learn to type without knowing where the home keys are. The basic steps are always the ones to master. The staff at Marshall Dry Goods have developed the following 10 tips which are perhaps simple, but are some of the foundational techniques one must learn. Here we go! 

1. THE STRAIGHT AND NARROW

The most simple stitch is the straight stitch. It is the most elementary of stitches you can use, and is probably the most useful from the beginner to the expert. The stitch is accomplished by first tying a knot at the end of your thread. Hold the threaded needle on the “wrong side” of the fabric right where you want to make your stitch. Push the point of the needle UP through the fabric, pushing straight up until the knot catches on the back side. Pull the thread slowly up through the fabric. You continue by passing the needle in and out of the fabric at a regular distance. Once you are finished, tie it off. Simple, yet effective!

2. THE HEM-ING-WAY

Over the course of one’s life there will come a time when a hem needs to be repaired. For those who are more adventurous, learning how to sew a hem from beginning to end can be extremely rewarding. A well executed hem makes the garment look professional, creating a nice finished edge (like the bottom of your pants or a dress). To create a basic hem, fold the fabric under (about ½”) and press it into place. Then fold again the same amount, press it, and do a straight stitch. While there are several methods to heming, go online and find one that fits your particular garment. There are different hems for different types of garments. It is worth your time to familiarize yourself with these different types of hems. 

3. THE CHAIN GANG

The chain stitch implements a series of looped stitches which form a chain-like pattern. Since this stitch can form flowing, curved lines, it is used in many surface embroidery styles. To begin, bring the needle up through the back of the fabric. Then go back down through the same hole that you just came up through. Be sure to leave a little loop, then go one stitch length forward, coming up from the back, and bring your needle up through the center of the loop. Be sure to not pull too tightly, as you want to see the loop you just created. Repeat over and over…

4. IT’S JUST TACKY

When you hear the terms “tack” or “baste”, these refer to temporary stitching which is intended to be removed. To create a tack stitch, move forward in a straight line, poking the needle up through the back of the fabric, then do the same stitch length as the first stitch. Continue until you have gone the desired length. Be sure to leave a length of thread tailing from the fabric, and do NOT tie it in or secure it so that it is hard to remove. X-shaped tacking stitches are also common on the back of men’s suit jackets, or at the bottom of kick pleats on a skirt. They hold the flaps in place during shipping and when on display in the store. You always remove them before being worn. 

5. ZIG TO THE ZAG

*image courtesy of The Ruffled Purse

A zigzag stitch comes in handy especially when you are preparing something fancy and want to add a custom look to your fabric. It is simply a back-and-forth stitch used where a straight stitch just won’t work. It is used to reinforce things like buttonholes, and in temporarily joining two work pieces edge-to-edge. While some try this stitch by hand, all sewing machines (built after 1950) usually have this stitch setting built in. The side-to-side motion of the machine’s needle is controlled by a cam, which rotates and moves side to side. Also, make sure you are using the right needle and thread according to the fabric. You can also use the zigzag stitch to hide broken stitches. 

6. ZIPPITY DOO DAH

While beginners may balk at learning to sew in a zipper, it really isn’t as hard as it looks. Begin by attaching the zipper from the backside using a simple straight stitch. It helps to mark the sides of the zipper and stitch it point to point. As you proceed, always check to make sure the zipper is zipping. Remember to fold the sides of the clothing to avoid any catastrophe. There are also many resources online that demonstrate how to sew a zipper. Once you sew one, it’s easy-peasy!

7. UNDERSTANDING UNDERSTITCHING

*image source: Pinterest

Understitching is the secret to creating an amazing finished look. This technique keeps the facing from rolling outside the garment, allowing you to press a crisp, clean edge along necklines or basically anywhere the garment is faced. Always keep the right sides together, and stitch away!

8. BAR TACKS

*image source: Wikipedia

According to Wikipedia, bar tacks are a series of stitches used to reinforce areas of a garment that may be subject to stress or additional wear. Typical areas for bar tack stitches include pocket openings, buttonholes, belt loops, the bottom of a fly opening, tucks, pleats, and the corners of collars. Bar tacks may be sewn by hand using whip stitches, or by machine using zigzag stitches. The process for sewing a bar tack is essentially to sew several long, narrowly-spaced stitches along the line of the bar that will be formed, followed by short stitches made perpendicular to the long stitches through the fabric and over the bar.

9. THE PRESS IS ON

Ironing is one thing - pressing is quite another. Ironing involves gliding the iron back and forth over a garment in order to remove wrinkles in the fabric. When you press, you leave the iron in a stationary position on the fabric for a few seconds. Ironing can actually cause damage if done incorrectly, whereas pressing helps to set and blend stitches. 

10. FINISH WELL

When one finishes a stitch you actually aren’t done. Finishing the seams will prevent the thread from unraveling, ensuring that it stays in place. One method of finishing involves sliding the needle under the existing stitch, pull it through to make a loop, pass the needle through the loop, pull the needle to close the loop and simply tie a knot. You can repeat these steps under the same stitch to make a second knot if you want added security. It’s also important to make the inside of your fabric look just as nice as the outside. Consider pinking the seam with a pair of pinking shears.

A WORD TO THE WISE

At Marshall Dry Goods, we have been around the block more than just a time or two. We not only have the fabric and supplies you need to get started, but our advice is free and our staff is friendly! Regardless of what your next project is, understanding the basics is key. If you have questions, or simply need to gear up for your next project, come see us at 310 West Main Street in Batesville, Arkansas, or give us a call and let our staff help guide you in making your next project a success!