FREE SHIPPING OVER $80 | Cut Yardage Only | U.S. Only |   Excludes Bolts, Bundles, Pre-Cuts, Batting 
FREE SHIPPING OVER $80 | Cut Yardage Only | U.S. Only |   Excludes Bolts, Bundles, Pre-Cuts, Batting 

QUILTING FOUNDATIONS - Part 2 of 2

DAVID JACKSON | QUILTING | AUGUST 06, 2021

The heart of any quilt is the backing. In the construction world, a solid foundation is critical for any structure. If it’s built correctly you will avoid damaging cracks and potential building collapse. in the sewing world the backing has to be right - otherwise your entire project could fail.


Last month we dealt with batting types, batting characteristics and more. If you missed it, click here. Even though it’s been around a long time, when it comes to quilt batting, this is perhaps the most overlooked, yet most important hidden element of any quilt. Questions that often come up include:


  • How much material do I need to use?

  • Do I prewash or not?

  • What do these terms mean: bearded, bonded, drape, loft…?

  • Are labels and ratings important?


Let’s dive in!



BATTING TERMINOLOGY


Before we go any further, let’s look at some basic terms and what they mean.



BATTING is the filling used to make quilts, making them warm and heavy. It's usually manufactured from cotton, polyester or wool. More recently, manufacturers have started to use bamboo fibers as well.


BEARDING is the separation of batting fibers that can sneak their way to the top between the fabric weave. This is something to avoid - and is usually caused by not buying a good quality batting from a trusted source.


BONDED means that the batting has been pretreated with glue, resin, or even heat that was used to fuse fibers together. Heat bonding is also called thermal bonding. A bonded batting will prevent most bearding and clumping tendencies.


DRAPE is a term that refers to the pliability of a finished project. A lot of drape is characterized by a project that is soft, pliable, and clings to your body. Less drape is needed especially when you are making a wall hanging - where you need it to be stiff.


FUSIBLE batting will usually have a dried blue or resin that has been applied that will change into an adhesive when you heat it with an iron. Always avoid placing the iron directly on the fusible side, as it will stick to your iron. Fusible batting is a good choice when pinning may be a concern.


LOFT is directly associated with the thickness of the batting. Many times it is also used to describe how breathable the fiber is. Low loft batting will be thin and flat, whereas a high loft batting will be more thick and fluffy. Low loft will the pieced pattern and high loft will show your quilting stitches better.


NEEDLE-PUNCHED is a process where the sewing machine uses thousands of tiny needles in order to fuse or felt the batting fibers together. The batting will be stronger and denser with low loft. It can also make the batting more stiff if desired. Keep in mind that needle-punched batting is usually not good for quilting by hand, as it will be harder to pass a hand needle through the dense material.


SCRIM is a treatment where a thin layer of woven fibers is applied to one or both sides of the batting. It will stabilize the batting, preventing them from separating and clumping. Scrim will also add strength to the batting, preventing it from stretching.


QUILT BACKING FAQs



HOW MUCH BACKING DO I NEED?

To figure out how much backing to buy you must first measure your top. There are charts available that can help you find the correct amount of fabric according to the size of your quilt. These charts are an easy guide and work best for any “standard” sized quilts. Remember that if you are having a long arm quilter finish your quilt, you will need to add 8” to the length and width to accommodate the quilter.



If your quilt is not within the “standard” range, then you will have to figure out the amount of yardage that you will need on your own. The general rule of thumb is to add 4” to each side (add 8” if you are sending to a long arm quilter).


For example: Your quilt top is 99” wide and 106” long. You need a quilt back that is at least 103”x 110” (just add 4” to each side). If your quilt back is 108” wide, you will need at least 110” aka 3.05 or 3 1/8 yards (110 divided by 36). We suggest you also add 1/8 yard for shrinkage which means you need to purchase 3 ¼ yards.


WHAT ABOUT USING A 45” FABRIC? 

If you want to use a 45” quilting fabric and piece the back, you must look at your measurements carefully. 45” fabric has selvedges on each side, which should be cut off when you piece your back. Most selvedges are bulkier and tightly woven than the rest of the yardage. Leaving the selvedge on can cause the fabric to ripple, makes the seams thicker, and can cause all kinds of trouble with the back of your quilt - SO CUT IT OFF! Removing the selvedge along with a ½” seam allowance will leave you with about 42” of usable fabric.


We also recommend piecing your back with horizontal seams, instead of lengthwise, will save yardage. Long arm quilters like horizontal seams because it eliminates a bulky area down the center of your quilt when it is rolled up on their long arm frame. Using our previous example (Quilt: 99”x106” Back: 103”x110”), our 110” long quilt would require 3 widths of 45” quilting fabric that are at least 103” long. For our quilt you would need to purchase 8 5/8 yards of fabric (103 x 3 = 309” divided by 36” which equals 8.58 yards.


Another way to piece a back for your quilt would be to use the scraps from your top as a filler between the 42” wide strips. For smaller quilts, this works well, as it uses up the scraps that are already color coordinated for your quilt.



WILL IT SHRINK?

Like it or not, the fact of the matter is that most quilt backs will shrink. It is best to plan for about 1” per yard in length and some will even shrink in width. Quilt backing fabrics are made with a lower thread count or fewer threads per inch and are usually made with yarn that is less processed than 45” quilting cottons. Many manufacturers use finishes on the fabric in order to make them feel more desirable. The only way to know for sure is to buy a piece, take it home, and wash it.


WHAT ABOUT LABELS AND RATINGS?

Always pay attention to the label on the batting, as every batting is given a rating. The larger the number, the less quilting is required. The rating also tells you how close or how far apart your quilting stitch lines should be in order to keep the batting intact. Always remember to never buy batting that doesn’t have this label. The label gives you much-needed information such as fiber type, treatment that was made to the batting, stitching distance and more.


LET US HELP



If you want your next quilting project to not only look great, but last a long time, realize that it must have a strong foundation. Getting to know the ins and outs of batting will help you on your next project. Marshall Dry Goods carries one of the largest amounts of batting and fabric choices in the United States. We also make it simple so that you can order your chosen fabric from anywhere in the world, right from our website. Shop our fabrics online to get inspiration for your next project, or come give us a visit at 310 West Main Street, Batesville, Arkansas 72501.



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